Town Walls and the
Old Town within...
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19th century cathedral -
symbol of church revival after the Revolution
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Viewed from the rue de Lille
and its many pavement restaurants, the Italian-style dome of
Boulogne's Cathedral of Notre-Dame dominates the
town. Inside, the nave is a cool quiet oasis in the Old
Town.
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Inside the huge dome, the biggest in Europe after St.
Peters in Rome
Boulogne cathedral was rebuilt in the 19th century as a
symbol of the revival of the French Catholic Church after
the Revolution, in which the old cathedral and so many other
churches were closed and destroyed.
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The Legend of Notre
Dame
In about 633, when St
Omer was a bishop, legend has it that a mysterious boat
carrying a luminous statue of the Virgin Mary appeared in
the estuary of the river Liane at Boulogne - without oars,
sails, or sailors! Townsfolk carried the statue to their
church on the hill, and soon miracles were attributed to
it.
Later embellishments of the story had the boat pulled by
a swan - which became the emblem of the town.
Pilgrimages
From the 13th to the 16th century, pilgrimages to kneel at
the feet of the "Virgin of the Sea" at Boulogne were very
popular. Medieval pilgrims came especially from England,
France and Flanders. Inns and hospices offered them food and
lodging in Boulogne and along the way; the pilgrims bought
souvenirs, like small lead badges (see below), candles,
etc., which gave work to local craftsmen; whilst donations
and alms made Boulogne's cathedral monastery prosperous.
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1.
14th century lead pilgrims' badge, showing the "Virgin of
the Sea".
2.
A representation of the Virgin made in 1803, after
Napoleon
allowed the churches to reopen.
3.
1885 statue of Mary, again holding the baby, and the boat in
the waves.
 
4,5.
Buried crypts of earlier churches were uncovered
during the slow construction of the cathedral, which started
in 1827 after the defeat of Napoleon. Some of these painted
walls and arches date back to the 11th century - a few parts
even to the earliest 7th century church - other to the 15th
century. Amongst the "treasures" in the crypt are a pile of
stone cannon balls from when Henry VIII besieged Boulogne in
1544. Back
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"Our Lady of the Great Return" in the Nave
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Processions of the
Virgin's statue
In 1854, when the building of the cathedral was well
advanced and a new railway opened from Paris to Boulogne,
the Abbot started an annual procession in August when the
statue of the Virgin would be carried through the town,
attracting many pilgrims.
In the Second World War, when Boulogne was in the
German-occupied half of France, four statues were built on
large open trailers. They were pulled through many towns all
over France, eventually arriving in Boulogne, to encourage
people to pray to "our Lady of the Great Return" - the
return of refugees, of prisoners, of soldiers, and of peace.
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top
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Walk
the Town Walls - and see the Old Town
within....
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Boulogne: the Porte Neuve by the cathedral. Walking the
walls. The castle in one corner of the walled town - now the
Museum.
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Today you can walk all round the
ramparts, with good views inside to the Old Town (see
below), the Cathedral,
and looking outwards to the newer town centre, the port and
the sea. On most sides, the walls are lined with trees and
gardens - you don't realise you are so high up!
Château
In one corner of the walls, there is a medieval castle which
is now the town Museum.
The château strengthens the weakest landward-facing
corner of the town's defensive walls - built in the 13th
century by the Counts of Boulogne, on the foundations of
earlier Roman walls.
There are four gateways by which you can
enter the old town inside, one on each side of the
rectangular fortification - see map, right:
D=
Porte des Dunes, P=Porte
des Degrés, G=Porte
Gayole, N=Porte
Neuve. Also marked are:
B=Place Godfrey de Bouillon,
L=rue
de Lille, R=Place
de la Résistance. Back
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Boulogne's Walls and the Old Town
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The Old Town from the air
Old 17th century map
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Old Roman
Fort
The rectangular shape of Boulogne's old town walls
reveals its origins as an old Roman fort. Boulogne's harbour
in the estuary of the River Liane was the base from which
the Roman emperor Cladius successfully invaded Britain in
AD43-45, as well as for Julius Caesar's brief expeditions in
55 and 54BC.
Roman
Lighthouses
Twin lighthouses on either side of the Channel - on the
hilltop overlooking Boulogne, and on top of the white cliffs
at Dover - helped guide trading ships across the narrow
straits, carrying grain, hides and lead from Britain and
essential supplies of wine and olive oil in the other
direction.
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Spanish
Armada
For centuries Boulogne was a heavily fortified border
stronghold. In the 1580's rebel Catholic forces tried to
capture the town as a possible base for the Spanish
Armada en route to invade England.
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Pavement cafes in Godefrey de Bouillon
square - part of the lively summer scene in Boulogne's old
town.
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Restoration of the Old
Town
Not so long ago, the old town was run down and very
quiet.
Today as well as visiting the cathedral, you can enjoy
walking round the walls. Inside the walls, many of the old
buildings have been restored.
Particularly in the rue de Lille and in Godefrey de
Bouillon square, there are lively pavement cafes,
interesting shops and some good restaurants. Back
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Cathedrals
to visit:
Arras
cathedral -
adjoining the Musé des Beaux-Arts
Boulogne
cathedral of
Notre-Dame
Lille
cathedral -
the newest in France
Saint-Omer
cathedral
Therouanne
cathedral
(archaeological ruins)
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 ...Send
in a review..
Reviewer -
Location:
Take Boulogne exit from A16 autoroute
Information:
Office de Tourisme
24 Quai Gambetta
Tel: 00 33 3 21 10 88 10
Fax: 00 33 3 21 10 88 11
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Background
information
Churches
in Nord-PasdeCalais
Romans
Spanish
Armada
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www.theotherside.co.uk
© Copyright 2001 Invicta Media. Last updated 29th August
2001
