Julian Lucas

Background topics | Where to eat | Regional dishes

Eating out in northern France
Julian Lucas - your guide to eating and drinking on theotherside

Restaurants
Brasseries
Cafés and fast food
Ethnic restaurants
Friteries

Coq a la biere
Coq à la bière

Flamiche, or Tarte au Fromage
eaten with local cider and fresh-baked bread

Restaurants
Although the number of family run restaurants in France is rapidly declining as fast food outlets spring up everywhere, there are still some excellent places to eat. There have been great strides in the provision of good food in the UK in recent years, but it is still easier to find it across the Channel. The cost is usually considerably cheaper in France as well.

Traditional restaurants in France will serve meals between set hours, often 1200 - 1400. This can cause frustration for daytrippers, since French time is an hour ahead for most of the year. By 2.00pm (1.00pm British-time) many restaurants will stop serving. Providing you arrive on time, on offer will be a selection of set menus and à la carte dishes. A French lady once explained to me that unlike in brasseries, in a restaurant, 'you can not rush the meal, classical French cuisine will be served and don't expect chips.'
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Brasseries
Although the literal translation of brasserie is brewery, today it usually describes an eating house where beer and other drinks are served. A typical brasserie dish in the Nord Pas de Calais is Moules Frites (mussels and chips) and 'welsh,' a variation on welsh rarebit is only found in the north of France.

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Cafés and fast food
Many cafes in France will not just sell drinks but also sandwiches, salads and a limited number of hot meals.

Fast food establishments are becoming increasingly popular in France, particularly with the young. Unfortunately most main towns now have at least one MacDonalds, or 'MacDo' as they are commonly known. My advice is to avoid them like the plague. Quick is a similar type of burger bar, originally from Belgium, that serves slightly more edible food.

Attached to many hypermarkets are simple, inexpensive café-brasseries. These can vary in quality, but Flunch is consistently good value for money.
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Ethnic restaurants
As in the UK, ethnic restaurants in France give some insight into its colonial past. Indians are rare. There are many Vietnamese restaurants though and many describe their cuisine also as Chinese. Prices tend to be low, and if you like Chinese food it might be worth trying a French alternative. North African or couscous restaurants are also common and certainly should be sampled.

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Friteries
In many town and village squares you will find Friteries or mobile chip shops. Fish is not normally on the menu but there are a number of burgers, sausages and kebabs on offer. When there is little time to eat (for example the boat back to Dover leaves in a few minutes) my favourite is a sandwich Americain with brochette de pork. This is half a baguette with a pork kebab inside and then a mountain of chips placed on top. A selection of sauces are usually available. Harissa is a Tunisian purée made from chillies, cayenne, oil, garlic, coriander and cumin. It transforms this simple chip butty. Harissa is also available in tins and tubes in food shops. It is cheap and brightens up many dishes.

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Where to eat

Recommended restaurants, cafés, etc are listed on the page for the nearest big town (see "A-Z"), and by their speciality, e.g. "seafood".

Related Background Information:
Beer - the local drink, from local breweries
Bread - revival in traditional types
Cheeses - specialities of the region
Farming - local produce, and farms to visit
Seafood - with recommended seafood restaurants
Wines - where to buy

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Eating out in northern France
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